February, 11th, 2016

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#PARIS, #PALLADIUM

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At #YSL, when legacy enters the equation, creativity goes subversive. That’s why #Hedi rocks and #Slimane rolls. the 50th anniversary of the #RiveGauche was celebrated by brooding historic prints with 82 musical note print. His #SaintLaurent imperial couture embroidered pieces reminded me of @Bouchra.Jarrar #fw17 napoleon’s sartorial staples in aesthetics and social messages. these are times of wars and warriors. and so is couture, a weapon in androgyny. besides imperial themed tapestry, the Paris-born Italian-Tunisian went back to his military officer iconic pieces. the jupe-culottes in leather or tweed and couture caftans in fur or embroidered red velvet are easy-to-wear understated uniforms for the every modern woman and man consolidating his reputable silhouette with hints of his glam fall 2005 collection, notably the épaulettes. Personally, Hedi referenced also his 2000’s #Dior Homme signature in answering his questions about culture, music, art and society as Monsieur Saint Laurent did every time he challenged insolence. The result was cosmic, graphic, contemporary, with a sexual frisson and more than a haute of the rock and high roll. There was one more time an undercurrent of Slimane’s fascination with #LOSANGELES magna millionara in its density, darkness, danger, decadence, depravity and dream. The colors of the palette he chose. Then it was all the lively savoir-french of the Ateliers: premières et petites mains with needles, threads, fabrics and dreams. #YvesSaintLaurent insisted on transformation of his era by feminizing a masculine wardrobe. #HediSlimane could not settle for less. Both, fiercely independent spirits, weathered l’esprit #Beatnik: hip of couture and cool of sophistiqué. Fashion is fashionable again. La nuit, t’ennuie, change de peau!
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#ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR
#NEWYORK #NYFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Made At Milk Studios)