\

MODE DIPLOMATIQUE

__





Bleu. Blanc. Rose.
#Mercipourcemoment @DSQUARED2 #SS15 



PS: Êtes-vous #Trierweiler ? Better not


#MILANO #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

__

Bleu. Blanc. Rose.
#Mercipourcemoment @DSQUARED2 #SS15 

PS: Êtes-vous #Trierweiler ? Better not


#MILANO #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE


MILANO | SPRING SUMMER 2015 | ANDREA INCONTRI
PALAZZO TE PAJAMA PARTY

Claudette Colbert has had a pair of pajamas in red stripes that made sensation. Greta Garbo looked chic in pajama stripes. Sophia Loren looked sassy in pajamas stripes. Model Mary Jane Russell modeled them with a turban in Vogue in 1953. Obviously pajamas as outerwear look best at night and in silky fabrics. Classic style silk pajamas could be worn to host a party in Palazzo Te, fine example of the mannerist style of architecture in Mantova, the city of Andrea Incontri in his Spring Summer 2015 collection.

Andrea’s vision for a very smooth silhouette with a silky tunic pajamas was my favorite collection of day one in Milan for next summer. Lightness and essential forms were designed to be folded in order to transform an entire collection in a closet trip. A treat! Un coup de coeur !

In its brevity, this collection can almost be viewed as a kind of Renaissance elements of style, where style means courteous, delightful and pointed feminine sagacity.

Since joining Tod’s as menswear creative director last June, Andrea is thrusting in confidence. He is floating. A great feeling. His personal #SS15 confirmed taste and feel: the simplicity of the dry shapes hides complex constructions. Queen of the collection is the shirt: white & black polka dots on transparent pants or mini skirts embroidered with gems, short chemises flowery dresses and camisole. Stardust for the whole skirt and blouse knit sparkles brilliance for an everyday venerable Donna.

Looking to Leon Battista Alberti and Giulio Romano, Andrea Incontri embraces his roots from a rich history and craftsmanship.

Mantova matters.

ALESSANDRO BERGA | L’ÉDITOR


MILANO | SPRING SUMMER 2015 | ANGELOS BRATIS
DRAPED EXPRESSIONISM

Greek designer’s ethereal collection etched into Yiannis Moralis’s bold rationalist abstraction.

Though Bratis’s work was very classical in one sense, very Minerva’s, he infused maestria, colors and forms all inspired by Yiannis Moralis, an outstanding figure in Modern Greek painting, one of “1930s generation” painters.

Aparté. With a scholarship from the Academy of Athens (1937), Yiannis Moralis studied mosaics and frescos in Rome. Angelos Bratis taught his passion for the “moulage” at the Akto Design School of Athens, the Istituto Europeo di Design in Milan and the Academy of Fashion and Costume in Rome. Rome, gravitas for both.

Subsequently, Yiannis Moralis attended lessons on painting and fresco in Paris, at the École des Beaux Arts and on mosaics at the École des Arts et Métiers. He had presented his work in many solo and group exhibitions both in Greece and abroad, having had his first one-man show in Athens, 1959. Half a century later, Angelos Bratis curated several exhibitions on art, fashion and architecture.

From the 1970s, Yiannis Moralis moved from the realistic depictions of the human form of his earlier works towards a geometric stylization incorporating curves. From the 2010s, Angelos Bratis conveyed collections recognizable by the architectural fluidity of the design and its elegant and impeccable technique.

After graduating in Fashion Design from the Fashion Institute Arnhem in Amsterdam, Bratis moved to Italy and began honing his talent through collaborations “behind the scenes” with great designers. In 2011 he won first prize “Who Is On Next?, ” Alta Roma and Vogue Italy’s talent search for emerging fashion designers, decided by a jury composed of Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune, Franca Sozzani of Vogue Italia, Mark Holgate of Vogue, and retailers Saks Fifth Avenue and Harvey Nichols.

Read More

__




FLOATING IN FULLNESS
@GUCCI #Seventies #Serenity 2015



#MILANO #MFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

__


FLOATING IN FULLNESS
@GUCCI #Seventies #Serenity 2015

#MILANO #MFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

__




#Haiti is to @StelleJeanLtd
What #Italy is to @StefanoGabbana : a canvas for couture. 


#SS15 is #SS14 Season 2

#22 #PORTAUPRINCE 



#MILANO #MFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

__


#Haiti is to @StelleJeanLtd
What #Italy is to @StefanoGabbana : a canvas for couture.


#SS15 is #SS14 Season 2

#22 #PORTAUPRINCE

#MILANO #MFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

__




.A Portrait.

Thank you #UlysseLemerise | #LaPresse

___


“In South Sudan, the Festival for #Fashion and Arts for Peace was born two years ago. This event has a cultural agenda but also a political agenda because it brought a sense of togetherness and peace in the country* (ndlr: South #Sudan has been dealing with civil war for many years). This is what art, fashion and music does – it brings people together for a meaningful reconciliation. Fashion is a healer! Stories like South Sudan or the first fashion week for men in Pakistan that beautifully expressed men’s masculinity, are what attracts me. In Ecuador, Pachacuti means “world upside-down” in the Quechua language. It is the name of a respected brand by British woman Carry Somers describing her life journey to redress the inequalities in the global fashion industry through demonstrating that it is possible to run a successful retail and wholesale clothing business which benefits the producers and is environmentally sustainable, while raising, as a monoparental mom, her beautiful daughter Sienna. In the small, rural community where #Pachacuti works, the art of creating #Panama Hats is woven into the fabric of daily life: women weave on the bus, walking to market, on their way to the fields. Did you know that in late 2012, the #UNESCO declared that the art of weaving a Panama hat in Ecuador would be added to their list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, just like Chinese acupuncture and Spanish Flamenco? I didn’t. Founded on a passion for improving the lives of Andean producers and their communities, Pachacuti is committed to creating a successful, contemporary fashion and accessories business built on the foundation of Fair Trade. THIS is what we share with our readers in #ModeDiplomatique: affirmative and fashionable fashion.” #AlessandroBerga

__


.A Portrait.

Thank you #UlysseLemerise | #LaPresse

___


“In South Sudan, the Festival for #Fashion and Arts for Peace was born two years ago. This event has a cultural agenda but also a political agenda because it brought a sense of togetherness and peace in the country* (ndlr: South #Sudan has been dealing with civil war for many years). This is what art, fashion and music does – it brings people together for a meaningful reconciliation. Fashion is a healer! Stories like South Sudan or the first fashion week for men in Pakistan that beautifully expressed men’s masculinity, are what attracts me. In Ecuador, Pachacuti means “world upside-down” in the Quechua language. It is the name of a respected brand by British woman Carry Somers describing her life journey to redress the inequalities in the global fashion industry through demonstrating that it is possible to run a successful retail and wholesale clothing business which benefits the producers and is environmentally sustainable, while raising, as a monoparental mom, her beautiful daughter Sienna. In the small, rural community where #Pachacuti works, the art of creating #Panama Hats is woven into the fabric of daily life: women weave on the bus, walking to market, on their way to the fields. Did you know that in late 2012, the #UNESCO declared that the art of weaving a Panama hat in Ecuador would be added to their list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, just like Chinese acupuncture and Spanish Flamenco? I didn’t. Founded on a passion for improving the lives of Andean producers and their communities, Pachacuti is committed to creating a successful, contemporary fashion and accessories business built on the foundation of Fair Trade. THIS is what we share with our readers in #ModeDiplomatique: affirmative and fashionable fashion.” #AlessandroBerga

__






.Aparté.

@Versus_Versace #SS10 

#PierreBailly is to me what I call A boho @terryrichardsonstudio - i.e shoot real, full frontal flash in the face, and random poses. #PierreBailly fashions photographic Realism, a mix of parisian 16e arr. and late XIXth  of Realism in painting ..



#MILANO #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

__


.Aparté.

@Versus_Versace #SS10 

#PierreBailly is to me what I call A boho @terryrichardsonstudio - i.e shoot real, full frontal flash in the face, and random poses. #PierreBailly fashions photographic Realism, a mix of parisian 16e arr. and late XIXth of Realism in painting ..

#MILANO #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

__






Back in #2008


#TomFord : I was driving down the street in Beverly Hills a few months ago and standing on the corner, looking like someone who was waiting for the bus, was #HediSlimane . I run into a lot of people.

#KarlLagerfeld : Yes, he loves it there too. He wants to work from America. I love the idea and I always had the feeling I would be there one day, maybe the time is right now.


@TOMFORD #SS15 has a flavor of @Chanel meets #SaintLaurent 


After all, great Ol’ Tom, like patriarch Karl, is [always] obsessed with #HediSlimane because he is always one step ahead, Noir inclus ..


PS: #KarlLagerfeld : “I know very few [designers] and they don’t have any glamour. They take themselves too seriously. They want to be intellectuals or they want to be ‘artists’. 

..

After all, I have a bookstore and I’m a publisher..” So Karl is not an intellectual ? I would live to imagine Karl and Tom in a #tea with a Marguerite Duras, Susan Sontag or Roland Barthes to brisk on innovation and the stereotype of innovation. Truth is a frivole concept amongst fashion makers. Great artists steal but are they .. great? 





#LONDON #HEDISLIMANE #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

__


Back in #2008


#TomFord : I was driving down the street in Beverly Hills a few months ago and standing on the corner, looking like someone who was waiting for the bus, was #HediSlimane . I run into a lot of people.

#KarlLagerfeld : Yes, he loves it there too. He wants to work from America. I love the idea and I always had the feeling I would be there one day, maybe the time is right now.


@TOMFORD #SS15 has a flavor of @Chanel meets #SaintLaurent


After all, great Ol’ Tom, like patriarch Karl, is [always] obsessed with #HediSlimane because he is always one step ahead, Noir inclus ..


PS: #KarlLagerfeld : “I know very few [designers] and they don’t have any glamour. They take themselves too seriously. They want to be intellectuals or they want to be ‘artists’.

..

After all, I have a bookstore and I’m a publisher..” So Karl is not an intellectual ? I would live to imagine Karl and Tom in a #tea with a Marguerite Duras, Susan Sontag or Roland Barthes to brisk on innovation and the stereotype of innovation. Truth is a frivole concept amongst fashion makers. Great artists steal but are they .. great?

#LONDON #HEDISLIMANE #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

Older →